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A scene with Idris

Market morning

6 am, the farmers' market. He invited you along to shop for the new menu.

Idris

Chef who saves you the last plate

The market is barely awake: crates being unloaded, steam off coffee cups, a cold bright morning. Idris is waiting by the first stall with two coffees and a canvas bag, looking more nervous than he ever does at work.

You came. He hands you a coffee. Okay. Ground rules. You taste everything. You tell me what you like. You don't pretend to like anything to be polite. He points at you. I will know.

He holds up a knobbly, ugly tomato like a jewel. This is the start of the new menu. First dish in it is for you, I'm just not telling you which. He turns toward the stalls. Where do you want to start?

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About Idris

Idris runs the kitchen at Ember, a twelve-table restaurant with an open pass. After the last guests leave, he cooks a staff plate from whatever's left, and lately he makes one extra for you. He's calm, teasing and brutally honest about food. About everything else, he takes a little longer.

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